Museum of Passion: Laments of the Heart…

You are Here: Tweet, Like, Share, Comment, Subscribe…be the Voice of Free Press!

By Shahana Naqvi: Edited By Adam Rizvi, The India Observer, TIO: Every year since I started writing about Islamic arts and culture on my blog, Museum of Passion, my writing during the month of mourning, Muharram, has been especially dedicated to exploring and documenting Azadari traditions around the world, particularly in India.

Azadari

Azadari is an Arabic word that means to commemorate the dead or to mourn. It also refers to the practices related to mourning and commemorating the death of Hussain ibn Ali in the Battle of Karbala in 680 AD. The main purpose of Azadari is to revive the teachings of Ahlulbayt (the family of Prophet Muhammad), to remember the suffering of Imam Hussain, his family, and companions, and to honor his uprising to safeguard the rightful teachings of Islam.

Also Read, Tweet & Share: Tamil Nadu High Court allows Muharram to observed with drums and Music

The tragedy of Karbala and the unjust murder of Imam Hussain (AS) and his followers, along with the pain endured by his family (including women and children) after the battle, have been commemorated for centuries every year in the month of Muharram. This observance recalls the sacrifices made by them for the sake of humanity.

In the Indian subcontinent, it is also known as Azadari-e-Imam Hussain, and Majlis (congregations) are organized both publicly and privately by those who wish to honor Imam Hussain’s memory.

Also Read, Tweet & Share: Muharram is not about ‘Happy New Year’

Imambara

An Imambara, also known as an Imambargah in Lucknow (North India) or Ashurkhana in Hyderabad (South India), is a public place dedicated to the remembrance of Imam Hussain. It is a building where Shia Muslims gather to mourn the martyrdom of Imam Hussain and his 72 followers and to revive his teachings.

This public space for mourning is also known as Hossainiya, Ashurkhana, Matam, or Takiya in different parts of the world. These buildings serve not only a religious function but also a cultural one. When not in use after Muharram, these structures and their adjacent buildings often serve the public as medical dispensaries, schools (Madarsa), places for feeding the poor (Langar Khana), or rest houses for travelers (Sarai Khana).

Also Read, Tweet & Share: Hindus observe Muharram at a village in Belagavi, Karnataka sans Muslims

In Iran, Hossainiyas have historically served as charitable offices and medical institutions when not in use. Many Matams in several Gulf countries serve as venues for conferences, exhibitions, and even wedding ceremonies after the month of Muharram.

Hussain and Hind (India)

Hazrat-e-Shabbir ka karam hai dono par, Hurr bhi Azaad aur Hind bhi Azaad…

It is said that Imam Hussain, who wished to avoid bloodshed and confrontation with Yazid, considered traveling to Hind (India), a country he had heard was tolerant, and proposed to grant him and his family safe passage. However, his caravan was forcefully surrounded by the army of the tyrant Umayyad ruler Yazid and taken toward Karbala (Iraq).

Also Read, Tweet & Share: Hussaini Brahmins- Half Hindu and Half Muslim

For centuries, India has been a land of tolerance and peace, and the Ganga-Jamuni culture still thrives in this diverse nation. The Indian heartland is full of unique rituals and practices related to Azadari, which have been observed and revered by people of different religions and faiths, including Hindus, Sikhs, and even Christians. This demonstrates that the sacred blood of Imam Hussain and his message have touched the hearts of mankind, irrespective of their beliefs.

Lucknow

In my childhood, I saw Muharram being observed religiously at home in the city of Lucknow, also famous worldwide as the City of Imambaras. Azadari in Lucknow is renowned for its well-organized processions, generous distribution of tabarruk (Islamic ritual of sharing food and other items as a token of blessing), and unmatched devotion to mourning the martyrs of Karbala. For this reason, Lucknow is also known as Markaz-e-Azadari, or the Center of Azadari in India.

Also Read, Tweet & Share: Muharram, Majalis, Azadari & Marsiya Nigari kay Shahenshah Mirza Salamat Ali Dabeer

My late maternal grandmother, Begum Atia Naqvi, whom we lovingly called Ammajaan, was an expert in reciting the Marsiya of Mir Anees. After her death in 2013, my mother took over this mantle. My late paternal aunt, Tahira Liaquat (Phuphi), was a well-known Hadees Khwan in her lifetime. I witnessed the honor and love bestowed upon her for being a reciter of the Hadees of Shaheed-us-Shohada (Master of Martyrs, Imam Hussain) in Lucknow.

I saw my eldest uncle, Saeed Naqvi, a senior journalist and author, in the prime of his career, never missing a single Muharram in his ancestral home of Mustafabad. My younger uncle, Shanney Mamu, is well-known in the city for reciting traditional Soz and Salaams based on ragas. His deep, powerful voice evokes the tragedy of Karbala, touching the souls of Azadaars. He recites in both Awadhi and Urdu languages.

Also Read, Tweet & Share: Ashura: The Stand for Justice

Even now, in our ancestral home in the heartland of Awadh, the younger generation is encouraged by our elders to recite Nauha, Soz, and Salaam (all integral parts of Azadari) so that the Azadari tradition is not lost over time. How could the rich heritage I was born and brought up in not be ingrained in my young, impressionable mind?

Decoding the Past

Last week, I had the honor of visiting one of the oldest Imambaras in India, thanks to Professor Ali Nadeem Rezavi Sahab, whose contribution to promoting Medieval Indian History is commendable. He is the Chairman and Coordinator of the CAS Department of History at Aligarh Muslim University (AMU). Since 2013, he has held an esteemed position as Visiting Fellow at the Shiah Institute in London and currently heads the Aligarh Society of History and Arts (ASHA).

Also Read, Tweet & Share: History of Shi’ism in India

I had been in contact with him for information related to my genre of writing, and during one of our conversations, Professor Sahab mentioned having visited one of the oldest Imambaras in India, located in Delhi, near the New Delhi railway station. He sadly informed me that the main gate to the monument was lost when he last visited it. Since I have been living in Delhi, he suggested it would be easier for me to explore the monument’s condition than for him, living nearly 162 km away in Aligarh (Uttar Pradesh).

Also Read, Tweet & Share: Zikr: In the Light and Shade of Time

Quest for Clues

I had eagerly awaited the opportunity to explore and witness a lost page of history—especially a topic very close to my heart. On a rainy Saturday evening, which was luckily a day off work for me, I attended a Majlis (congregation) in the morning and decided to explore the ancient Imambara building dedicated to the memory of Imam Hussain and the martyrs of Karbala. The only link to the monument was the Google map shared by Professor Ali Nadeem Sahab.

Not being too familiar with Delhi’s roads and landmarks, I sought help from Farid Bhai, the helpful and friendly caretaker of Dargah Qadam Sharif in Paharganj, whom I had met earlier in March during my quest to find a link to my roots.

Also Read, Tweet & Share: Brave Women Of Karbala

 

Navigating the claustrophobic lanes and alleyways of Paharganj on that wet August evening, we finally reached Qutub Road. My eyes couldn’t wait to see the monument. After a few minutes of brisk walking on the busy road—full of honking vehicles of all sorts, from buses and cars to tongas and autos—we finally managed to reach the middle of the road.

“Here is your monument,” announced Farid Bhai. Though he had crossed this road countless times since his childhood, he never knew the significance of the structure until I came seeking his help.

To ordinary citizens like us, the ancient building looks much like the many stone masonry structures found in Delhi’s old monuments and buildings. It’s only when we’re made aware of the historical significance of these structures, as I was through the help of Professor Ali Nadeem Rezavi Sahab, that we truly appreciate them. Professor Sahab has always graciously answered all my queries related to history, arts, culture, and religion.

Also Read, Tweet & Share: Islamic Calligraphy: In search of a lifeline

The imposing domed structure stands proudly today, perched between two busy road junctions. Upon reaching the monument, my eyes were greeted by a bizarre scene: a horse tied to an iron fence meant to protect the monument. Inside, masons were at work, with iron cladding, mixtures, and tools scattered around to repair the structure. Amid all this, the main signage of the project, executed by INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage) and funded by the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India), which described the monument’s history, was nowhere to be seen. It was total chaos—something I never expected to encounter.

The contractor assigned to repair the ancient monument informed us that a private company had been hired to restore the dilapidated structure. Farid Bhai, himself a resident of an ancient structure dating back to the Tughlaq period, inquired about the materials being used to repair the Imambara.

Also Read, Tweet & Share: Prophet Muhammad’s birthday? So how do Muslims celebrate?,”Milad-Un-Nabi Mubarak.”

 

The contractor explained that the huge boulders of stone were originally not fixed with any mixture but were made to settle one atop another—an engineering marvel, he declared, from a time long before the advent of modern machinery and equipment.

Contractor Sahab told me that the huge boulders of stone were originally  not been fixed by any mixture rather made to settle one atop another, this was an Engineering marvel he declared much before the advent of modern machinery and equipments .

In the midst of the conversation, I found myself feeling nostalgic, imagining myself standing inside a structure that was built to honor the memory of the martyrs of Karbala almost seven centuries ago. I thought about how the way of life, beliefs, terminology, and practices of those commemorating Muharram must have changed over time. These halls would have once been filled with the sounds of Marsiya, Nauha, and Matam from the lovers of Ahlulbayt, the Azadaars.

In the olden days, this structure would have been surrounded by greenery on both sides where the busy road is now. The only creatures giving wings to my thoughts were a pair of beautiful pigeons perched on top of the newly repaired dome.

Also Read, Tweet & Share: Karbala: A Guiding Light for Humanity and the Essence of Islam 

It was heartening to know that the building had been spared from foreign invasions, the ruthless policies of rulers and kings, and even the British Raj that once ruled over India. In the name of development—especially road widening—even ancient Mazars (tombs) of saints have not been spared. Somehow, miraculously, this building has managed to survive the pangs of time and is now undergoing renovation to keep it standing for at least another century or two.

The Structure

The fourteenth-century Imambara, located in the middle of the busy Qutub Road near the Nabi Karim police station, is built of rubble masonry and plastered with lime on the inside. There are around five mihrab-like structures inside the monument, suggesting that some sacred objects might have been stored or kept there. The roof is flat and covered with vaulted domes. The C-shaped monument belongs to the Afghan period in Indian history.

My Tribute

I decided to recite a Nauha (an elegiac poem recited by Shia Muslims that narrates the tragic events of Karbala) to pay my tribute to the martyrs of Karbala. Standing in a remote corner of the structure, I recited an old Nauha I had heard in my childhood:

Yaad aayi na tumhe Fatima Sughra, Baba,
Karbala jaake hume bhool gaye kya Baba…
(Did you not remember your daughter Fatima Sughra, O Father? Have you forgotten me since you left for Karbala, O Father?)

Lady Fatima Sughra was the daughter of Imam Hussain, who was left behind in Medina with her grandmother because she became sick when the caravan of Imam Hussain left Medina (Saudi Arabia) for Iraq. History records that she sent a letter addressed to her beloved father Imam Hussain, which he received through a postman (qasid) on the battlefield of Karbala after he had lost most of his family.

This Nauha expresses a daughter’s love, pain, and longing for her beloved father. As I recited it, I felt that this Nauha also captured the essence and pain of a lost monument, longing to be used for the purpose it was built upon. My eyes fell upon the thick iron fences, which reminded me of the prison dungeon of Damascus where the prisoners of Karbala were kept by the tyrant ruler Yazid after the tragedy of Karbala.

Also Read, Tweet & Share: The Greater Evil….

I then recited another Nauha that my daughter Anam used to recite as a child:
Pyaare Nabi ki pyaari nawasi Shaam ko qaidi ban ke chali hae…
(The beloved granddaughter of our beloved Prophet Muhammad PBUH leaves for Damascus as a prisoner…)

A Way of Life

The Tragedy of Karbala is not just a tragedy we mourn each year—it’s a way of life. It was a battle of humanity against tyranny, oppression, and injustice. The innocent blood of its martyrs continues to inspire mankind, teaching us how to be patient in times of adversity and trials, and how to live together as a family and society. It carries a message for all age groups, inspiring etiquette and manners among children and adults alike.

A battle between truth and falsehood, the events of Karbala have inspired many great leaders and ordinary citizens around the world. This tragedy shook the foundations of the tyrant and arrogant Umayyad ruler Yazid. It is a chapter in history and a guiding light for all those who seek justice and believe in securing human values and dignity, irrespective of caste, color, or creed.

Also Read, Tweet & Share: Mustafabad’s Tragedy: It Believed Everything Nehru Told Them 75 Years Ago

Diloen mein shamme wafa ki jalaate jaaenge,
Jahan hoe zulm awaazein uthate jaayenge.
Ghum-e-Hussain se seekha humne ye ab tak,
Jidhar hoe haq ka basera basaate jaayenge…
(We brighten our hearts with loyalty, where there is oppression we speak out. The sorrow of Hussain has taught us to make a home wherever there is truth.)

Also Read, Tweet & Share: Aftermath of the Battle Of Karbala

A small shrine dedicated to the martyrs of Karbala in my humble abode 2022 ,it’s place has since been changed ,yet these symbols of sufferings, patience and resistance continue to guide me as I pass through the journey of life.

Also Read more from this Author: Tree of Life

Curated and Compiled by Humra Kidwai

Articles written by contributors have different viewpoints. The views expressed in the articles are the author’s own and not necessarily supported by TIO, The India Observer its affiliates, staff, or the management. Our Articles can be reproduced, with the following conditions, (1) No alteration to the content, (2) Visible, and full credit is given to the Author & Editor. (3) Citing, The India Observer, TIO. In the case of online or electronic media, a link to the original article must be given. Rules are strictly enforced. Any questions, email the Editor at: Mediaiss@gmail.com Or TheIndiaObserver@gmail.com

All Copyrights reserved. Please be guided.